In the Garden - October 2026

Congratulations to all Clippings readers who won ribbons at the Carolina Classic Fair! Your hard work paid off!

Many of you know that I often write about fellow members’ rose-growing routines because their methods always offer something new to learn. I’m pleased to introduce longtime WSRS member Sharon Johe as a guest writer for one of our future Clippings issues. I always enjoy sharing other members’ perspectives, and I’m especially pleased that Sharon has agreed to contribute. Sharon has previously written columns for our newsletter, so she knows what appeals to our reading audience.

Soil Testing: I get this done every two years. We know that roses grow best when the soil pH is somewhere between 6.5 and 7.0. Soil testing is the only accurate way to know if you should add nutrients to your lawn or garden.

In NC, we can get this done for free from April 1 through November 30. I am going to wait until mid-November to submit my soil samples. By waiting this late, there is less chance that unprocessed fertilizer will be left over to affect the accuracy of the results. Beginning December 1, soil testing will cost you a whopping five bucks per sample. Just remember, your samples must arrive at the Raleigh lab by November 30 to avoid the fee!

All that needs to be done is to go to the NC Agricultural Extension office in Tobaccoville (road trip) and pick up a few test boxes. I collect my soil samples by digging 6 inches down with a stainless-steel trowel and depositing the soil into glass jars instead of any type of plastic or metal bucket (don't want to risk contamination). Next, I transfer the soil into the special boxes. Once you've collected your samples, open an account with the NC Ag Ext., follow the instructions, and submit your samples via your favorite carrier.

Your results will be posted to your account in plenty of time to determine what action, if any, you need to take to amend your soil. Be forewarned that your reports will appear confusing. Bring a copy of your results to the next WSRS meeting. A few of us who are not soil experts will pretend to be soil experts and help you understand the most important parts of your test results.

While we're thinking about November garden chores, mid-November is also the time to begin taking action for winter protection. Several of my roses were heavily damaged by the super-cold weather we had last winter. I failed to insulate the bud unions properly. These roses had a difficult time recovering during this growing season. The record heat was a real problem, even though I kept all my roses well hydrated.

For grafted roses, a mound of soil or compost spread over the bud unions and lower canes, plus a lot of leaves, should offer sufficient protection when temperatures dip below 25 degrees. Own-root roses don't have bud unions, but they can also benefit from winter protection. I will use leaves around those roses that I have previously found to be winter-tender. I will keep the leaves in place by using some leftover fencing material.

Whatever mulching material is used should be mixed with some coarse material, such as pine nuggets or soil conditioner, making it less dense. Mulch packed too tightly could cause decay.

We can stop deadheading and fertilizing. Make sure your roses remain hydrated. Apply some Preen around and under your bushes before applying mulch.

A little preparation now can make a big difference when spring arrives.

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Ghost Spotting and Other Petal Blights